Our latest machine quilting videos are packed with tips, tricks, and step-by-step tutorials designed to make your quilting journey smoother and more enjoyable. Here’s a peek at what’s new:
🌟 Pattern Eclipse with QCT-6 Pro Gold Card Access
This video highlights the powerful Pattern Eclipse feature of the QCT-6 Pro Gold Card Access. This is a really cool feature when you have areas on your quilt that you want to mask off and not have the edge to edge pattern quilt over it. Kathy’s pumpkin quilt shows how she did it.
The cloth leaders used to attach a quilt to the quilting frame rails are pretty good, but they can be even better with a few simple adjustments. This video shows you exactly how to prepare your leaders before you install them. Check them out!
We’re constantly adding new videos to help you improve your skills and make the most of your quilting machine. We will be doing more videos on free motion quilting and how to develop you muscle memory so you can quilt like Kathy!
Here are some of the subjects we plan on covering.
• Product walkthroughs
• Maintenance tips
• Tutorials for both beginner and advanced quilters
• Inspiration for your next project
Huge Black Friday Sale Now Live!
This is the biggest sale of the year at KathyQuilts.com! Check out the sale
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Ready to learn something new? Head over to the Kathy Quilts University YouTube channel, hit subscribe, and start exploring our latest tutorials today!
For several years, I’d wander through quilt shows, strolling through vendor booths—it’s my favorite pastime! I’d see these stunning quilts quilted simply with all-over patterns. Now, I’m mostly a ‘custom’ quilter, changing thread colors, switching up designs for each block and border. But those all-over designs were so beautiful that they really made the whole quilt shine. I wanted to create that look on my own quilts, but I didn’t have a computerized system on my home setup.
When COVID hit, with all that extra time at home, I thought, ‘Now’s my chance!’ I dove into quilting with the QCT QuiltMotion system. I’d previously used pantographs from the back of my quilter, following patterns by hand, but WOW! The precision using Quilt Motion was next-level. Each quilt became more fun, and my skills improved. Plus, with free designs I found online, I could add even more variety.
And don’t get me wrong, I’m still right there as the machine quilts, but now I can do designs I never thought possible! Quilting for clients has sped up, and my work feels elevated. So, if you’re thinking about a computerized system—if not now, when? There’s never been a better time, and learning it now puts you way ahead for next year. Imagine quilting simple all-over designs or making each block unique with more precision. I only wish I’d started years ago!
Longarm machine frames have been around for many years. They tend to be pricey and take up a lot of space. Typically, folks who own longarm frames quilt professionally or have more disposable income than most of us. But recently, the “Home Machine Quilting” market has taken off, with many major frame manufacturers now making frames for home sewing machines.
If you’ve got a domestic machine and are thinking about adding a frame, this info is for you. We’re focusing on shortarm machine frame quilting since there are plenty of other resources out there for traditional longarm quilting.
Most home sewing machines are considered “Short-arm Machines.” The space to the right of the needle, known as the harp, needs to be at least six inches for you to quilt effectively on a frame. Many shortarm frames are paired with machines that have a nine-inch throat. You can use your own machine in most cases, but those with at least a nine-inch throat provide distinct advantages over standard machines when quilting. If you want to dive into shortarm machine quilting, this is the way to go!
These nine-inch throat machines are real workhorses that can run at 1500 or even 1600 stitches per minute. That might sound fast, but once you’ve been quilting for a while, it doesn’t feel that way. Machines like the Juki 2010Q, Brother 1500, Janome 1600, Viking Mega Quilter, and Pfaff Grand Quilter are some of the most popular for quilting on shortarm frames. They work with speed controls and stitch regulators, making them super versatile.
Some machine frames let you place the foot pedal directly on the carriage, but others will need a speed control or stitch regulator, which takes the place of the foot pedal altogether. If you go this route, it does limit your machine options, but these straight stitch-only machines are perfect for quilting—it’s all you need! They’re also great for piecing quilts or regular sewing projects, just without any fancy stitches.
At KathyQuilts.com, we sell the Little Rebel. It has a big enough throat to handle pretty much any quilt you’d do on a quilting frame or hoop. It’s fast, the stitch quality is top-notch, and it runs so smoothly that it cuts down on vibration. Less vibration means less hand fatigue, so you can quilt longer without needing a break. The Little Rebel is perfect for people who are serious about quilting, but don’t want to break the bank! We’ve sold thousands of quilting frames over the years, and we’re here to support our customers for as long as they need help. With the right training and equipment, the possibilities are endless!
Short-arm, Long-arm, and Hoop Quilting Frames
The main difference between short-arm, long-arm, and hoop quilting frames is pretty simple—the throat space on the machine and the size of the machine’s footprint. Short-arm frames were designed for folks who got tired of rolling their quilt and cramming it under the arm of their domestic machine. They’re a huge upgrade from the old “throw it over your shoulder” style of quilting. With a short-arm frame, you’re moving the machine around the quilt instead of wrestling with it under a stationary needle.
The Q-Zone Queen frame is a solid budget-friendly option, setting up at 8 feet long and adjustable between 34.5” and 42.5” front to back, depending on the machine you’re using. It works with domestic machines (anywhere from 6 inches to 19 inches of throat space), and it’s also compatible with Q’nique 16X, Block RockiT 15R, or Q’nique 19X Elite machines, making it a super versatile machine frame.
With a short-arm frame, just be mindful of your quilt size and motifs. Rolling the quilt every couple of minutes can get old quick, so it’s key to maximize your machine’s capacity. Kathy’s tip is to start at one end and quilt as much as possible as you work your way across. Don’t get hung up on what the frame can’t do. You might need to change thread colors often, but knock out the borders and main sections while you’re in that zone.
One great time-saving trick is to load your quilt sideways if you’ve got only 6-8 inches of throat space. If your quilt is longer than it is wide, throw that long edge on the rail (if it fits). That way, you’ll have longer rows to quilt and less rolling. A 10 or 12-foot frame, like the Q-Zone Queen with a 2-foot extension or the Quilter’s Evolution Elite, really steps things up here.
For queen-size quilts, a 10-foot frame is best. If you’re thinking of tackling king-size quilts, go for a 12-foot frame. An 8-foot frame limits you to quilts that are 84 inches or smaller. When your machine is on the frame, remember that the carriage hits the side of the frame, and the needle is usually 7-8 inches in from the edge, which shrinks your quilting zone more than you might think. Hoop frames, like the Cutie Breeze or Q-Zone hoop frame, have the same issue—the machine won’t reach all the way to the edges. You’ll need cloth leaders to start your quilt about 8-9 inches in from the end.
Hoop frames are a great option when you need a small footprint but still want to quilt like you’re using a rolling rail frame. The quilt drapes over the sides of the frame instead of being pinned directly to the rail, so you quilt in zones. After quilting one zone, you slide the quilt over to the next until you’ve worked your way across to the opposite side. Kathy always recommends starting on the left side and working your way over to the right. This is where having cloth leaders that pin across the top of the quilt really comes in handy. With a hoop frame, you can quilt almost any size project since the quilt hangs off the sides.
The downside to hoop frames is that you usually need to baste all three layers—your quilt top, batting, and backing—together before loading it onto the frame. That’s an extra step you don’t have to deal with on a rolling rail frame. But if you don’t have space for an 8, 10, or 12-foot frame, a hoop frame is the next best thing.
Cloth Leaders
Just like those old cassette tapes that had that clear section you couldn’t record on, which hooked the brown tape to the spindle, you need something to attach your quilt to the frame or hoop when quilting. Those strips of fabric are called leaders, and they’re what you pin your quilt to—attached to the frame itself. The Grace Company Evolution Hoop frame and the Evolution Elite (rolling rail) frames are the only Grace frames that come with cloth leaders included.
You can make your own leaders, but you’ve got to be sure you’re using the right fabric so they’re not too stretchy. It’s something worth discussing when you buy your frame, or if you’re picking up a used frame, make sure the cloth leaders are included.
Breaking Down the Frame for Storage
Currently, the only frames you can truly store away are the Cutie and Cutie Breeze frames. In the past, some quilters tried disassembling their larger frames, but that never really worked well. If you need a quilting system that can be put away when not in use, the Cutie Frame (which is now discontinued) or the Cutie Breeze Frame with its upgraded upper carriage system are your best bets.
There are other quilting systems out there, but they don’t work as smoothly as the Cutie Frame. You might be able to find a used Cutie Frame somewhere, or you can go with the Cutie Breeze for the best storage-friendly option.
Arm Length – Arm length, throat length, and harp all refer to the same general area. When we talk about how big your machine is, we’re usually referencing the measurement to the right of the machine needle.
Belly Bar – The belly bar refers to the frame rails or poles that are closest to you when you stand in front of your quilting frame.
Carriage – The upper and lower carriage assembly is where the sewing machine rides on a quilting frame, allowing smooth movement as you quilt.
Domestic (Home Sewing Machine) – Any machine made for general home sewing. We often call these short-arm machines, which typically have 10 inches or less of throat space. These machines usually run at 700 to 800 stitches per minute. The Juki TL-2010Q, for example, has a nine-inch throat and can stitch up to 1,500 stitches per minute, making it a great option for short-arm frames.
Floating a Quilt Top – Floating a quilt top means the quilt back is pinned to the take-up rail, but the quilt top and batting are either pinned or sewn directly to the quilt back.
Frame Backside – This is the side of your frame that holds the sewing machine carriage, often called the table side. When using pantograph patterns or template guides, you’ll be quilting from the backside of the frame. When you pin on a quilt, it’s pinned to the take-up rail from this side.
Frame Front – The front of the quilting frame is where you’re closest to the sewing machine needle. This is the best side to view your quilt as you work on it.
Harp – The harp of a sewing machine is the space to the right of the needle. The bigger the harp, the easier it is to work on larger quilts or blocks. Most domestic machines have a pretty small harp.
Leaders – These are fabric strips that attach to the frame rails (or poles). You pin the quilt to these leaders when loading it onto the frame.
Long-arm Machine – A long-arm machine is built specifically to work on a machine frame and usually has more than 18 inches of throat space. These machines are much larger and faster than domestic sewing machines and are typically used on commercial quilting frames. The Q’nique 21X Elite is the machine that Lynn uses, Kathy has a 21 Pro which is a generation older than Lynn’s.
Mid-arm Machine – Mid-arm machines have a throat length between 15 to 18 inches and are also made to work on machine frames. The Q’nique 16X Elite is actually a mid-arm machine but most people just call all sewing machines with over 10 inches of throat length a long-arm.
Pantograph Pattern or Panto – Pantos are long patterns that you trace with a stylus or laser. They’re usually placed on the back side of the frame and come on long rolls of paper.
Quilt Back Rail – This is the rail where you roll up the quilt back when loading your quilt onto the frame.
Quilt Top Rail – This rail is where you roll the quilt top when loading it onto the frame.
Shortarm Machine – Most domestic machines fall into this category. Even if they’re stretched to have a slightly longer throat, they’re still considered shortarm machines.
Short-arm Machine Quilting Frames – These frames are designed to hold domestic or mid-arm sewing machines.
Speed Control – Speed controls take the place of your sewing machine’s foot pedal, allowing you to adjust speed using knobs or buttons. While these controls let you speed up or slow down the machine, they don’t control the stitch length. Stitch length depends on how fast the machine is running and how quickly you move the carriage.
Stitch Length Regulator – Stitch regulators, like the Grace SureStitch, help you control your stitch length while quilting. They monitor how fast you’re moving the carriage and adjust the machine’s speed to match. If you speed up, the machine speeds up; if you slow down, so does the machine. This helps create even stitches. Most of the Q’nique Long-arm machines have built-in stitch regulators.
Take Up Rail – This is one of at least three rails on your quilting frame, where the completed quilt is rolled up as you finish each row.
Throat Length – The throat length is the area from the needle to the right side of your machine, also known as the harp. For quilting on a short-arm frame, you’ll need at least six inches of throat space.
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Machine Quilting Magic is our eBook that we first published back in 2012, and since then, we’ve distributed thousands of copies. It’s helped countless people master the art of machine quilting. Our goal with this eBook is to provide step-by-step training that not only helps the beginner quilter get started, but also gives the seasoned professional quilter new techniques to improve their craft. Whether you’re just starting with machine quilting or you’re looking to refine your skills, this guide is packed with tips to make quilting on a frame easier and more enjoyable. If you’re ready to take your quilting to the next level, Machine Quilting Magic is for you.
Introducing Kathy and Lynn Barlow of KathyQuilts.com and Kathy Quilts University:
If you’d told me when I was growing up that I’d end up making my living in the quilting industry, I would’ve thought, “What?” I always knew I wanted to own my own business, and I’m grateful to be living that dream, but I had no idea quilting would become such a big part of my life.
Kathy has been a huge inspiration to me with her entrepreneurial spirit. Her dad was a farmer who worked multiple side jobs to provide for the family, and Kathy followed in his footsteps, running several successful businesses over the years.
For a long time, Kathy had quilting frames that took up an entire room. When she got her first Grace Frame, it made quilting so much easier, and moving to a machine frame was an easy decision. Kathy has been sewing since she was seven, and she’s always been incredibly fast and accurate. It was no surprise that she took to machine quilting quickly, but even with her natural talent, she knew there was no substitute for practice. She quilted 27 quilts before she had the confidence to take on a customer’s project.
Today, Kathy owns a Grace Company Q’nique 21 Pro, and a Gammill Classic longarm machine and frame. When she bought her Gammill Classic over 27 years ago, serious quilting frames were hard to come by, and it was a huge investment—$10,000 was a lot to come up with. After the Gammill team set up her frame, she spent nights wondering how she’d pay for it. But her dedication and passion for quilting have made it all worthwhile.
Fast forward to 2014, and the Grace Company approached Kathy and me to help sell their new 15-inch long-arm machine. We named it the Block RockiT 14+, and before we knew it, we were traveling all over the U.S., doing quilt shows and selling our incredible machine. They sold like hotcakes, and we were having a blast.
Eventually, Grace started selling the Q’nique, which was the same machine, just rebranded so they could offer it to their dealers. It became clear that it made more sense to stop having our own branded machine and become Grace Company dealers, focusing on selling the Q’nique long-arm machines instead.
The pressure was on, so Kathy dove into quilting. There were challenges along the way, but she pushed through and started getting the hang of her longarm frame.
Kathy had the chance to take some classes from Linda V. Taylor, a well-known professional longarm quilter and teacher. Linda was in Texas at the time, but when she taught in Salt Lake City, Utah, the $300 for a full day of hands-on training was well worth it. Kathy took more classes whenever they were available, and they weren’t cheap! But those quilting classes, combined with Kathy’s hard work, had a huge impact on her success as a professional quilter.
Kathy has become a favorite quilter for many customers, with her reputation as a talented machine quilter spreading nationwide. She now quilts for people around the world. Kathy has a real gift for knowing how to place designs on a quilt, making sure it turns out as something truly special, rather than just looking like a generic bedspread from a budget motel.
As for me, I graduated from Utah State University in 1996 with a degree in business information systems. After bouncing around a few jobs, I landed a position selling computers for Gateway. That experience was invaluable in helping Kathy and me grow KathyQuilts.com into what it is today.
We partnered with Mike Carlsen from the Bernina Store in Logan, Utah, and together we found a niche just waiting to be filled. KathyQuilts.com has earned a strong reputation for offering the best customer service among dealers of Grace Company products.
Kathy and I have been selling Grace Frames for over 30 years, and the Grace Company has played a key role in our success. When we had design ideas or suggestions for frame features, Grace listened and made those ideas come to life. We only sell Grace Frames because, frankly, they’re the best we’ve ever worked with.
Kathy is the quilting expert, handling the actual quilting work, while I oversee sales and support at KathyQuilts.com.
We’ve had an amazing time working with thousands of incredible quilters around the globe. Kathy and I are truly grateful for all of you who are part of the Kathy Quilts family.
We live in Utah and spent most of our time raising our six children, remodeling our 127-year-old house, and occasionally writing quilting ‘how-to’ books. Now, as empty nesters, we focus on selling Grace Q’nique long-arm machines, frames, and accessories, with a big emphasis on creating training videos on YouTube and offering resources for quilters at every level.
Here’s how to pin a quilt on a Grace Company 2-rail frame:
1. Prepare Your Quilt Layers: Lay out your backing, batting, and quilt top. Make sure your backing fabric is a few inches larger than the quilt top on all sides.
2. Attach the Backing Fabric: With the wrong side of the backing fabric facing up, pin one edge of the backing to the take-up rail using the cloth leaders. Smooth the fabric, then pin the opposite edge to the front rail, keeping it taut but not stretched.
3. Roll the Backing: Roll the backing fabric onto the front rail, keeping it smooth and wrinkle-free.
4. Attach the Quilt Top: Pin the top edge of the quilt top (right side up) to the front rail’s leader cloth. Smooth the top and pin the opposite edge to the take-up rail.
5. Pin the Batting: Place your batting between the backing and quilt top. Let the batting rest flat without pinning it, making sure it’s centered.
6. Smooth and Adjust: Roll the quilt top and backing as needed, keeping everything smooth and tension even across the frame.
You can also watch a video on YouTube where Kathy Barlow shows you how to install the Cloth Leaders and other video of how to pin your quilt on the frame:
Link for how to install cloth leaders on your Grace Frame: