Tag Archives: Q’nique

I’ve been schooled!!! Why Using a Bedsheet is a Bad Idea

Quilting with a bed sheet is a bad idea. Thread breakage and other issues

You can see the bad stitching on the back of this quilt. When you use a bed sheet you are looking for trouble.

This is from Kathy Barlow of Kathy Quilts.

I just completed quilt #4102.  And I have to share that it was the worst quilting experience that I can remember having.  Here’s how it all went down.

It was my birthday last week, and I wanted to just leave the troubles of the world behind me and do something that I wanted to do for myself.  Of course it was sewing something!  I’d had my eye on an instragram post I saw a couple of months ago, of a quilt with a teal or turquoise background and plain black and white trees.  I loved the look.  Last year, I made a scrappy tree quilt for our bed at our cabin, and it was so fun making all those scrappy pieced trees.  I decided to use one of the tree patterns and try to duplicate the quilt (after I’d spent hours trying to find the actual quilt pattern to no avail.)  I knew I had enough low volume white and black fabrics but I needed a background fabric.  I found some online on Etsy, but it couldn’t be delivered for over a week.  I went to my stash.  Yes, I was willing to cut into any of my precious fabrics if I could find enough of a similar color.  There in my cupboard of solid fabrics, at the very bottom, was a turquoise fabric!  And it looked like a good size, so I pulled it out.  Yay! It was a good amount.  Unfortunately it was a bed sheet!

I know the controversy, and I spread it around myself.  NEVER use a sheet in your quilting!  Sheets are so tightly woven (like 600-1000 thread count per inch as compared to quilting fabric of approximately 70 threads per square inch.  I tell all my clients – be daring if you want and give it a try, but if it fails, know that you were taught differently.  I have cheated this fact a couple of times by purchasing a micro fiber sheet for a quilt back, and that’s always worked fine.  Maybe because of the softness of the fabric or maybe because of the cheapness.  I was taught that if you really really needed to use a sheet, purchase the cheapest loosest count that you could find.  Let me explain why in terms we might be able to understand.  As the needle goes through the fabric, it has to pick up the bobbin thread at just the right time to create an entire stitch before it can move to the next stitch.  If there is something preventing the needle from getting through the fabric at the correct time, this full stitch can’t be completed.  What might make the needle slow down?  Here’s a couple of reasons.  Heat and bond!  If the fabric is too stiff and solid, the needle has to work harder to penetrate that fabric.  Sizing of fabric.  Same reason.  Stabilizer behind the fabric.  Same thing – needle has to work too hard.  High thread count!  Same thing, if the fabric is sooooo tightly woven, that needle can’t find a good place to pierce the fabric and it takes just a split second and it’s missed the window of completing the stitch.   Or the hook catches that top thread at the wrong time, and slightly cuts into the top thread, eventually shredding the thread.  So my problem was the high thread count.  I never imagined that it would be such a huge problem for myself.  Anyway, back to my project.

I felt the fabric.  Poly cotton blend.  Quite thick, sturdy fabric. I loved the color.  I was anxious to make ANYTHING and it was all in front of me.  So I decided to bite the bullet and give it a try.  My quilt blocks pieced up wonderfully.  I singed one piece of fabric, so I knew it was a poly blend and I turned the heat down on the iron.  It all worked out.  I even had enough left to do most of quilt back besides.  It was all ready, and I was caught up on client quilts, so I loaded it onto my Grace Continuum quilting frame and got started. Most of the time, when I use the Continuum frame, it’s because I want to run QCT6 Pro automation. I’ll usually get my Q’nique 21 Pro going with an automated design, then head over to custom quilt on my Gammill Classic—letting me work on two quilts at once.

The first row of the quilt, I kept breaking threads.  Like the thread shredded 10-11 times.  So I changed the needle.  I decided to use a size 18 needle instead of my normal size 16. It didn’t seem to make a difference.  As the quilting row returned from right to left, the breakage was even worse.  I changed the needle again.  I turned the needle slightly to the left.  I dropped the needle slightly (these are hacks to use when your machine needs to be retimed but you just want to get through the quilt before you deal with it.)  Nope, nothing worked.  I finished the first row of my panto design and gave up and went to bed.

Two days later, I knew I needed to deal with the problem.  I had a dream that if I’d soften the fabric some, it might be easier for the needle to go through.  So I find a place to plug in my iron next to my quilt and spray the quilt with water and also use the steam from the iron to soften the fabric.  I still had thread breakage.  Next I decided to turn down the speed on the quilter, so I put it on the slowest stitching speed possible, I usually quilt with it on the highest speed setting.  Nope, no improvement.  I changed the needle AGAIN!  All I could hear was that horrible popping sound as the needle tried going through that sheet (if you remember, my quilt back is ALSO THE SAME SHEET!  So I’m dealing with a double whammy here.)  I finally get through the 2nd row of my quilt (I have 7 rows total – I’m making progress.)  I’m about ready to take the quilt off and put it with my UFO projects.  Then I wondered about my thread!  I’m using a good 40 weight quilting thread, (Perma core Polyester thread by A&E).  Have I ever used this thread before?  Is it my problem, maybe a faulty thread? It seems like a huge new cone.  I change the thread.  I find something that doesn’t quite match, but if I can finish the quilt, I’m willing to deal with it.  No change whatsoever!  Thread break after break.  Within 5″ of the quilt from the edge, I’ve had to repair the design over 5 times at this point.  I’ve started pulling my hair out by now.

One more fix that I can think of – change the needle again.  I think this is the 4th time.  I see some size 14 needles on my table that I never use unless I’m working on a Batik quilt.  Let me explain about Batik fabric.  It’s colored and dyed by using wax and dye so the fabrics take on that mottled coloring in spots, and leaving designs in other spots (for example, a light colored whale shape on the fabric, surrounded with blue mottled colors, making the whale stand out.)  Because of the waxy content (and I’m sure these fabrics have been treated to wash out all the bad stuff), the fabric is still stiff.  So if I’m quilting a Batik quilt, and I make a mistake and have to unpick, those holes never go away.  It’s very blatent where I’ve made the mistake.  I can try to use a toothbrush to smooth out the holes from the mistake, but they’re still always there.  So I always change to the smallest needle possible when I’m quilting on Batiks so the holes are smaller where I make mistakes.  Hey, my fabric (the sheet) does feel and sound like I’m quilting on a Batik (those popping sounds of the needle trying to go through fabric don’t always mean that a needle has a burr on it – it’s just hard for the needle to go through the fabric and you hear every stitch as it tries to pop through those stiff fabrics.)  Last resort – I try the size 14 needle (Groz-Beckert Machine Needles).  Well, I made it through 10 inches.  Then 20.  I make it through the entire 60 inch width of the quilt without thread breaking!!!!!  My MIRACLE!  I still had maybe 3 more thread breaks, but that was the entire 5 more rows of the quilt.  I cried with thankfulness.

The quilt looks great after all of that pain and trouble but I still love it!

Here’s the recap.  I was having a problem with one quilt.   The previous quilt was fine.  My initial sew-off piece showed no problems with tension or thread issues.   The Q’nique 21 Pro longarm machine wasn’t broken.  I knew it had to do with the quilt.  I tried ALL of these things in order to find my fix:
1. Rethread the machine
2. Change the needle (in case it has a burr)
3. Change the needle (I went up in size because of the stiffness of the quilt.)
4. Change the tension (I went WAY loose in the top tension, hoping it would help stop the thread shredding.)
5. Clean the bobbin area
6. Oil the bobbin area again
7. Steam the fabric
8. Slow the speed down (this was actually quite helpful, although I still had thread breaking.)
9. Lower the needle slightly
10. Turn the needle slightly so it wasn’t exactly straight.  (I never remember which side I’m supposed to turn it to, but I learned this trick so I try it both ways.  One day I’ll write the correct way down so I remember.)
11.  Wet and steam the quilt again.  I kept the iron right by me and steamed the heck out of the area about 5″ to the right of the needle as it was stitching.  Over and over.
12. Change the needle AGAIN – this time I went to the smallest needle size I had, size 14.

I’m positive I tried more tricks of the trade I’ve learned over the years (including crying a lot), and I’m glad I could remember several of them.  Keep a quilting journal and keep track of ideas that have helped you as you’ve progressed in your quilting.  You are welcome to share those tricks with us and we can all learn from others mistakes and fixes.  What works on one quilt probable won’t work on the next as all quilts are different.  But just having some options to quitting are so helpful.  I didn’t give up here.  I was so THANKFUL that this was my very own quilt and not a client’s quilt. And I knew why I was having those issues, and will I ever use a sheet again?  NEVER!  I’ve learned the lesson personally that I’ve taught others for years.  Yes, quilt #4102 is completed and in the wash?  Why am I washing it now?  I’m going to show pictures of the horrible stitching on the quilt back, and I’m hoping they will sink into the quilt slightly so they won’t be so noticeable.

Happy quilting!  I hope you all have a much better experience today than I have had.  The next one will be so much better!

Love to you all!
Kathy

Why Keep A Quilting Journal?

June 2, 2025    (don’t read this if you hate inane details 😉

    I was just working on a quilt using quilt motion (QCT6 Pro) and a pantograph pattern design that I’ve used several times before.  Lynn came in and was asking me about the design and I told him all the changes I did to the design before using on this particular quilt. He asked me why I did all the tweaks, and I told him I looked at my past notes for the design so that I could avoid mistakes that I’d had earlier when using it.  (Like shrinking the design down to 3″ instead of 6″, having a vertical spacing of .5, changing the stitch length to 12 SPI (Stitches Per Inch) instead of my usual 10 SPI, and changing the quilting speed to medium instead of fast.  He wondered how I knew all that, and I told him I looked in my quilting notes – duh!  Well, who knew that everyone doesn’t keep notes about every quilt?


    I started making yearly quilting notes back in 1999, when I was really doing professional quilting for clients.  I found that if any quilt shop was teaching a class, and I happened to quilt the class sample for them, then people taking that class tended to want me to also quilt their quilt exactly the same as the class sample.  Well, picture people finishing a quilt top, which might take months and months (often years), and I would be quilting so many other quilts in the meantime that I had no memory of that quilt – what it looked like, or how I quilted it.  There were times that I’d get ten quilts exactly the same and everyone would want them quilted exactly the same.  So I started making notes about every quilt.  That’s a lot of notes when you get into the hundreds (and in my case, over 4100 quilts so far.)


    I make a new note in my word file for each year and label it ‘Quilting Notes 2025′, then start #1, date, client name, name of quilt, and size of quilt.  Then below this first line, I list memorable things about this quilt.  For example if was totally square of if I had to make adjustments.  If the borders are really flared, then I make a note to give the customer the printed tutorial about how to make your quilts square, especially when attaching the borders.  I put the colors of thread I used on this quilt (this is very important if you end up quilting multiple quilts that are using the same fabrics – this saves sooooo much guesswork in the next quilt.)  I’d put what batting I used in the quilt, and if I supplied the batting or if the customer sent their own choice.  And then I list how I quilted it.  For years and years, I only did custom quilting, so every single block was different, so I detailed how I quilted each block.  If I ever did a pantograph design, I listed the design.  Once I started having computerized designs, I would put the name of the design and the size I used.  Then I’d comment to myself if I liked the end result or if I’d change it in some way if I ever quilted this again.  At the end, I put what I charged the customer, and then what date they paid me and how I got paid (check, cash, Venmo, Credit Card, etc.)  It’s all in the details.


    So – here’s my hint.


1.  TAKE PICTURES of EVERY quilt!!!!  Take a good overall and several closeups of different blocks.  Take a picture of the quilt back.  Make a folder in your pictures called MY QUILTS, or Quilts I quilted.  Something like that so you can find the pictures quickly when needed.


2.  Document what you did on every quilt, making a file on your computer or in a simple notebook that you keep by your quilting machine.  This simple step may save you so much time in the future. For example you can document a new design you used and if you should never use it again, of if you’d like it larger so it won’t be so dense next time, or if the design took forever to stitch out, or if you had problems with it.  Or if you used a new thread and loved the way it worked so you can order more, or if you wanted to throw it in the trash.

I hope this helps at least one person for the future!  I would have loved to have someone tell me this when I first started quilting. As I was quilting professionally, the more time I could save in the future meant the more quilts I could quilt and the more money I could make. (or truthfully, the more time it left me for sewing my own things.)

Happy Quilting!
Kathy

April Live Event With The Grace Company!

Thinking about getting a Grace Company Hoop Frame? This event is the perfect chance to learn what they can do and see if one’s a good fit for your quilting setup.

Other exciting news is that you can register to win free stuff! Only people that are registered will be selected for the drawing.

We also get event pricing so not only will hoop frames be on sale but other frames and machines for one week. Check out our event pricing page

Hope to see you check in with us on the 30th 1:00 PM Mountain Time

Edge-to-Edge Quilting Using Pantograph Patterns

When and How to Quilt an Edge-to-Edge Pantograph Pattern

Edge-to-edge (E2E) pantograph quilting is one of the easiest and most effective ways to finish a quilt with a professional look. Whether you’re quilting for yourself or customers, a pantograph design can add beautiful texture without the complexity of custom quilting. Let’s go over when to use a pantograph and how to quilt one successfully.

“Easy” is a matter of experience. When I start quilting a pantograph, my first few rows don’t look as polished as the later ones because, like anything, it takes practice. Kathy, on the other hand, makes it look effortless because she has incredible control over her machine. If you want to skip the long learning curve, automation is the way to go. That’s why we sell QCT6 (QuiltMotion), which is now Kathy’s go-to setup. Since she quilts for customers, she needs efficiency—she loads the quilt, picks the perfect design, stitches down the edges so the hopping foot doesn’t catch, and lets her Q’nique 21X Elite handle the rest. With QCT6 Pro’s Power Panto mode, the entire process is automated! This frees Kathy up to do custom free-motion quilting on her Gammill Classic, allowing her to finish twice as many quilts. When you’re busy, every minute counts!

When to Use a Pantograph Design

A pantograph is a continuous line design that spans the entire quilt, from edge to edge, repeating across the entire surface. Here’s when it’s a great choice:

• Busy Fabric or Scrappy Quilts – A pantograph blends well and adds texture without overpowering the piecing.

• Fast and Efficient Quilting – If you need to finish a quilt quickly, an edge-to-edge design is much faster than custom quilting.

• For Beginners – Learning to quilt a pantograph is a great way to build confidence with your longarm. If you’re a beginner or trying a new design, I highly recommend practicing on a practice quilt first. Muscle memory is key—the more you practice, the smoother and more accurate your quilting will be. Taking the time to warm up will help your finished quilt match the pantograph design much more closely.

• All-Over Texture – When you want an even, consistent quilted look, pantographs provide a great balance.

What You Will Need

1. Rear handles for your long-arm machine – When using a pantograph pattern, it typically rests on the tabletop surface of your quilting frame. To keep it flat and prevent it from rolling up, try placing a sheet of clear vinyl plastic (available at craft stores) over the pattern. If your design has an offset pattern—where every other row shifts—you’ll need to use the registration marks to align each row correctly. Having rear handles on your machine is a game-changer, allowing you to stand at the back of the frame and smoothly guide the laser dot along the design. Rear handles are also handy when loading your quilt, making it easier to stitch down the batting and quilt top to the backing before you start quilting.

2. Laser for following the pantograph pattern (edge to edge design) – A laser guide is a must-have for quilting pantograph patterns. The Q’nique Laser easily plugs into the rear handles of all Q’nique and Block RockiT longarm machines, giving you precise control as you follow the design. It also comes with multiple lenses to adjust the size of the red dot on your pantograph, making it easier to see and trace. Following a pattern can feel tricky at first, which is why practice is so important— the more you use it, the smoother your quilting will become!

3. Pantograph Design – You can find pantograph designs at some quilt shops, but shopping online usually offers more variety. When buying a design, check if a digital version is included. Many quilters who start by following the red laser dot eventually upgrade to QCT6 automation, and having a digital copy means you won’t have to repurchase the same design for your computerized system later. It’s a smart way to future-proof your quilting!

How to Quilt a Pantograph Step-by-Step

1. Choose the Right Pantograph Design

Pick a design that matches the quilt’s style. Simple loops, swirls, and meanders work great for modern and playful quilts, while feathers or florals add elegance to traditional quilts.

2. Set Up Your Quilt on the Frame

Load your quilt backing, batting, and quilt top onto the longarm frame. Make sure it is taut but not overstretched.

3. Align Your Pantograph

Place the pantograph design on the back table of your longarm quilting machine. Use a laser pointer or stylus to follow the design.

4. Start Quilting

Begin at the edge of the quilt and follow the pantograph pattern with smooth, steady movements. Keep an even pace to maintain consistent stitch length.

5. Advance the Quilt

After finishing a row, roll the quilt forward and reposition your machine to continue the next pass of the pantograph. Make sure each row aligns properly to avoid gaps or overlaps.

6. Finish and Trim

Once the entire quilt is quilted, remove it from the frame, trim the edges, and bind it as usual.

Pro Tips for Success

• Practice First – If you’re new to pantographs, practice on scrap fabric before quilting your actual quilt.

• Use the Right Needle and Thread – A strong polyester (long-arm machine quilting thread is our recommendation) or cotton thread works well for pantographs, and a size 18 needle is a good choice for most longarms.

• Keep Your Hand Movements Steady – Smooth, even motion is key to preventing jagged lines or inconsistent stitching.

Pantographs are an excellent way to finish quilts efficiently while creating a beautiful, uniform design. With a little practice, you’ll be quilting stunning edge-to-edge patterns in no time!

Would you like help choosing a pantograph design or learning more about using your longarm? Let’s talk in the comments below!

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Why Free Motion Quilting Is A Good Place To Start

Free Motion Quilting

Free motion quilting can feel overwhelming if you dive in with a brand-new longarm system, load up a king-size quilt, and expect flawless results right away. The truth is, mastering longarm quilting is a journey—it takes practice, patience, and progression. Just like learning to play the piano, quilting on a longarm machine is a step-by-step process, where each skill builds on the next. Take it one stitch at a time, and you’ll get there!

Why Free Motion Quilting Rather Than Following A Pantograph Pattern?

Following an edge-to-edge pantograph pattern is trickier than it looks. Keeping that little laser dot perfectly on the line takes a lot more control and focus than most people expect. The great thing about free motion quilting is that it helps you develop muscle memory much faster than simply following pantographs.

Every quilt has its own personality, and sometimes an overall design just doesn’t do it justice. Free motion or custom quilting gives you the freedom to be creative and let the quilt “speak” to you. Take a pinwheel quilt, for example—pinwheels spin, they have movement! Your quilting should reflect that motion instead of covering it up with a random edge-to-edge pattern that doesn’t fit the design. The right quilting enhances the quilt, bringing it to life rather than overpowering it.

Don’t get me wrong—there are so many incredible edge-to-edge pantograph patterns out there that can truly enhance a quilt when used in the right situations. They can add texture, movement, and a beautiful finish. But having the skills to do both edge-to-edge and free motion quilting gives you the flexibility to choose what best suits each quilt. When you’re proficient in both methods, you can listen to what the quilt needs and create a masterpiece that truly brings it to life.

How To Get Started Free Motion Quilting

The best way to get started with free motion quilting is to load a practice quilt onto your frame and just start quilting! Don’t be afraid to quilt the heck out of it—this is all about building skill and confidence. Avoid using an old bed sheet as backing since it doesn’t give the best quilting experience. Instead, grab some affordable cotton fabric from Walmart and use a quality batting like Hobbs 80/20 Heirloom. It’s not the cheapest option, but it will help you get a feel for how your more expensive quilts will handle when you’re ready for them. A great exercise to begin with is writing in cursive. If you remember practicing lowercase and uppercase letters over and over in school, this will feel familiar. This technique teaches continuous line quilting, where you move smoothly without stopping, cutting your thread, and restarting. Learning to quilt efficiently within a block and then transitioning to the next without unnecessary stops will save time and make your quilting process much more fluid. With practice, you’ll develop the control and muscle memory needed to create beautiful, flowing designs!

Practice Makes Perfect… Well Pretty Close Anyway!

When we first started quilting on a longarm machine we heard over and over, “Just practice, practice, practice!” It is so true. When Kathy first started quilting she told her friends that she would supply the batting if they gave her quilts to practice on. The only stipulation was that they were donation quilts so her friends had to donate them. That way it didn’t matter how horrible Kathy thought they were because they were out of site out of mind and someone had a nice quilt give to them.

Meandering or Stippling Isn’t The Only Game In Town

Too many quilts rely on simple stippling or loose meandering, and while that may have been the go-to technique for old-school quilt teachers in the ‘70s, quilting has evolved so much since then! There are endless possibilities with feathers, fill patterns, and creative designs that can truly enhance the personality of your quilt. These techniques add depth, texture, and artistry, turning an ordinary quilt into something extraordinary. We’re working on some exciting YouTube videos to showcase a variety of fill patterns you can master and incorporate into your quilting. With a little practice, you’ll be able to transform your quilts into stunning, show-worthy pieces—quilting them yourself! Stay tuned and get ready to take your quilting to the next level!

In Conclusion

Don’t over think the whole machine quilting thing! There are far too many people that have invested a lot of money into their longarm quilting system only to be so intimidated by it that they never start. That is why loading a simple practice quilt on it and just scribble. Just do something. After you start to get a feel for how your machine moves around, then start practicing on feathers or other more advance fill designs. You are on the road to creating your own style. Don’t be satisfied with mediocre quilting quality. Remember that there are no natural born professional longarm quilters. Everyone that ever go to where they can do show quilts started just like you by pinning on a quilt and practice, practice, practice!

Let me know what you thought about this post.

Visit our YouTube Channel

Great Place To Find Digital Designs!

Kathy really likes this website for finding digital designs. They seem to have sales going on all the time and their digital designs are very reasonably priced.

This is a design that Kathy used in one of our YouTube videos

Click on the image to visit One Long Needle Arts website or click here

To check out how Kathy used this design on her quilt click on this link: https://youtu.be/N6VHkzRfeJI?si=q0_tnCv6djllNEmL

This is a great video that will teach you so much about how a real long-arm professional uses QuiltMotion QCT6 Pro to work on customer quilts.

Free Digital Download from Intelligent Quilting, Inc

Here is a really cute design that you can download for free. We just found this website and really like their digital patterns.

Download Simply Sunflowers

Let us know what you think about Intelligent Quilting, Inc’s website.

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Kathy’s Favorite FREE Digital Designs You can download

Here are some free patterns that I have used many times and really like them and thought you might like them as well.

* Heatwave https://www.urbanelementz.com/heatwave-free.html
* Scrolling vine (I like this one a lot, there are also matching blocks for free) https://www.urbanelementz.com/scrolling-vine-free-pantograph.html
* Double pebble https://www.urbanelementz.com/double-pebble-free.html
* Plumeria (looks like a poinsettia) https://www.urbanelementz.com/plumeria-free.html
* Thistle https://www.urbanelementz.com/thistle-free.html
* Star spangled all over https://www.urbanelementz.com/star-spangled-allover-free.html
* Fall foliage leaf design https://www.urbanelementz.com/fall-foliage-border-free-28475.html
* Elizabeth (very beautiful panto) https://www.mycreativestitches.net/free-patterns/
* Elizabeth entire matching set with panto and blocks and corners and borders https://www.mycreativestitches.net/elizabeth-set/
* Stars and Stripes for quilts of valor https://www.tkquiltingdesign.com/products/tkq-qov3-e2e
* Sample designs (include 21 various free designs to test with your quilter) https://www.tkquiltingdesign.com/products/tkq-sample-designs
* Radiant fill block https://www.jukeboxquilts.com/shop/Digital-Patterns–Machine-Quilting/Free/p/JBKGA-Radiant-Fill-x38309410.htm
* Several free designs about halfway down this page http://www.designsbyvickie.com

Here are some other designs that I like: https://www.digitizedquiltingpatterns.com/shop/category/free-downloads/


If you have any questions please comment on this blog post and we will answer and help all we can.

There is also a 20% Off sale on QCT6 so now is the time to save!

Shop the Sale
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Glossary of Terms – from Machine Quilting Magic eBook

Arm Length – Arm length, throat length, and harp all refer to the same general area. When we talk about how big your machine is, we’re usually referencing the measurement to the right of the machine needle.

Belly Bar – The belly bar refers to the frame rails or poles that are closest to you when you stand in front of your quilting frame.

Carriage – The upper and lower carriage assembly is where the sewing machine rides on a quilting frame, allowing smooth movement as you quilt.

Domestic (Home Sewing Machine) – Any machine made for general home sewing. We often call these short-arm machines, which typically have 10 inches or less of throat space. These machines usually run at 700 to 800 stitches per minute. The Juki TL-2010Q, for example, has a nine-inch throat and can stitch up to 1,500 stitches per minute, making it a great option for short-arm frames.

Floating a Quilt Top – Floating a quilt top means the quilt back is pinned to the take-up rail, but the quilt top and batting are either pinned or sewn directly to the quilt back.

Frame Backside – This is the side of your frame that holds the sewing machine carriage, often called the table side. When using pantograph patterns or template guides, you’ll be quilting from the backside of the frame. When you pin on a quilt, it’s pinned to the take-up rail from this side.

Frame Front – The front of the quilting frame is where you’re closest to the sewing machine needle. This is the best side to view your quilt as you work on it.

Harp – The harp of a sewing machine is the space to the right of the needle. The bigger the harp, the easier it is to work on larger quilts or blocks. Most domestic machines have a pretty small harp.

Leaders – These are fabric strips that attach to the frame rails (or poles). You pin the quilt to these leaders when loading it onto the frame.

Long-arm Machine – A long-arm machine is built specifically to work on a machine frame and usually has more than 18 inches of throat space. These machines are much larger and faster than domestic sewing machines and are typically used on commercial quilting frames. The Q’nique 21X Elite is the machine that Lynn uses, Kathy has a 21 Pro which is a generation older than Lynn’s.

Mid-arm Machine – Mid-arm machines have a throat length between 15 to 18 inches and are also made to work on machine frames. The Q’nique 16X Elite is actually a mid-arm machine but most people just call all sewing machines with over 10 inches of throat length a long-arm.

Pantograph Pattern or Panto – Pantos are long patterns that you trace with a stylus or laser. They’re usually placed on the back side of the frame and come on long rolls of paper.

Quilt Back Rail – This is the rail where you roll up the quilt back when loading your quilt onto the frame.

Quilt Top Rail – This rail is where you roll the quilt top when loading it onto the frame.

Shortarm Machine – Most domestic machines fall into this category. Even if they’re stretched to have a slightly longer throat, they’re still considered shortarm machines.

Short-arm Machine Quilting Frames – These frames are designed to hold domestic or mid-arm sewing machines.

Speed Control – Speed controls take the place of your sewing machine’s foot pedal, allowing you to adjust speed using knobs or buttons. While these controls let you speed up or slow down the machine, they don’t control the stitch length. Stitch length depends on how fast the machine is running and how quickly you move the carriage.

Stitch Length Regulator – Stitch regulators, like the Grace SureStitch, help you control your stitch length while quilting. They monitor how fast you’re moving the carriage and adjust the machine’s speed to match. If you speed up, the machine speeds up; if you slow down, so does the machine. This helps create even stitches. Most of the Q’nique Long-arm machines have built-in stitch regulators.

Take Up Rail – This is one of at least three rails on your quilting frame, where the completed quilt is rolled up as you finish each row.

Throat Length – The throat length is the area from the needle to the right side of your machine, also known as the harp. For quilting on a short-arm frame, you’ll need at least six inches of throat space.

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Machine Quilting Magic

About Machine Quilting Magic

Machine Quilting Magic is our eBook that we first published back in 2012, and since then, we’ve distributed thousands of copies. It’s helped countless people master the art of machine quilting. Our goal with this eBook is to provide step-by-step training that not only helps the beginner quilter get started, but also gives the seasoned professional quilter new techniques to improve their craft. Whether you’re just starting with machine quilting or you’re looking to refine your skills, this guide is packed with tips to make quilting on a frame easier and more enjoyable. If you’re ready to take your quilting to the next level, Machine Quilting Magic is for you.

Introducing Kathy and Lynn Barlow of KathyQuilts.com and Kathy Quilts University:

If you’d told me when I was growing up that I’d end up making my living in the quilting industry, I would’ve thought, “What?” I always knew I wanted to own my own business, and I’m grateful to be living that dream, but I had no idea quilting would become such a big part of my life.

Kathy has been a huge inspiration to me with her entrepreneurial spirit. Her dad was a farmer who worked multiple side jobs to provide for the family, and Kathy followed in his footsteps, running several successful businesses over the years.

For a long time, Kathy had quilting frames that took up an entire room. When she got her first Grace Frame, it made quilting so much easier, and moving to a machine frame was an easy decision. Kathy has been sewing since she was seven, and she’s always been incredibly fast and accurate. It was no surprise that she took to machine quilting quickly, but even with her natural talent, she knew there was no substitute for practice. She quilted 27 quilts before she had the confidence to take on a customer’s project.

Today, Kathy owns a Grace Company Q’nique 21 Pro, and a Gammill Classic longarm machine and frame. When she bought her Gammill Classic over 27 years ago, serious quilting frames were hard to come by, and it was a huge investment—$10,000 was a lot to come up with. After the Gammill team set up her frame, she spent nights wondering how she’d pay for it. But her dedication and passion for quilting have made it all worthwhile.

Fast forward to 2014, and the Grace Company approached Kathy and me to help sell their new 15-inch long-arm machine. We named it the Block RockiT 14+, and before we knew it, we were traveling all over the U.S., doing quilt shows and selling our incredible machine. They sold like hotcakes, and we were having a blast.

Eventually, Grace started selling the Q’nique, which was the same machine, just rebranded so they could offer it to their dealers. It became clear that it made more sense to stop having our own branded machine and become Grace Company dealers, focusing on selling the Q’nique long-arm machines instead.

The pressure was on, so Kathy dove into quilting. There were challenges along the way, but she pushed through and started getting the hang of her longarm frame.

Kathy had the chance to take some classes from Linda V. Taylor, a well-known professional longarm quilter and teacher. Linda was in Texas at the time, but when she taught in Salt Lake City, Utah, the $300 for a full day of hands-on training was well worth it. Kathy took more classes whenever they were available, and they weren’t cheap! But those quilting classes, combined with Kathy’s hard work, had a huge impact on her success as a professional quilter.

Kathy has become a favorite quilter for many customers, with her reputation as a talented machine quilter spreading nationwide. She now quilts for people around the world. Kathy has a real gift for knowing how to place designs on a quilt, making sure it turns out as something truly special, rather than just looking like a generic bedspread from a budget motel.

As for me, I graduated from Utah State University in 1996 with a degree in business information systems. After bouncing around a few jobs, I landed a position selling computers for Gateway. That experience was invaluable in helping Kathy and me grow KathyQuilts.com into what it is today.

We partnered with Mike Carlsen from the Bernina Store in Logan, Utah, and together we found a niche just waiting to be filled. KathyQuilts.com has earned a strong reputation for offering the best customer service among dealers of Grace Company products.

Kathy and I have been selling Grace Frames for over 30 years, and the Grace Company has played a key role in our success. When we had design ideas or suggestions for frame features, Grace listened and made those ideas come to life. We only sell Grace Frames because, frankly, they’re the best we’ve ever worked with.

Kathy is the quilting expert, handling the actual quilting work, while I oversee sales and support at KathyQuilts.com.

We’ve had an amazing time working with thousands of incredible quilters around the globe. Kathy and I are truly grateful for all of you who are part of the Kathy Quilts family.

We live in Utah and spent most of our time raising our six children, remodeling our 127-year-old house, and occasionally writing quilting ‘how-to’ books. Now, as empty nesters, we focus on selling Grace Q’nique long-arm machines, frames, and accessories, with a big emphasis on creating training videos on YouTube and offering resources for quilters at every level.

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