Category Archives: Training

Training for machine quilters

Why Keep A Quilting Journal?

June 2, 2025    (don’t read this if you hate inane details 😉

    I was just working on a quilt using quilt motion (QCT6 Pro) and a pantograph pattern design that I’ve used several times before.  Lynn came in and was asking me about the design and I told him all the changes I did to the design before using on this particular quilt. He asked me why I did all the tweaks, and I told him I looked at my past notes for the design so that I could avoid mistakes that I’d had earlier when using it.  (Like shrinking the design down to 3″ instead of 6″, having a vertical spacing of .5, changing the stitch length to 12 SPI (Stitches Per Inch) instead of my usual 10 SPI, and changing the quilting speed to medium instead of fast.  He wondered how I knew all that, and I told him I looked in my quilting notes – duh!  Well, who knew that everyone doesn’t keep notes about every quilt?


    I started making yearly quilting notes back in 1999, when I was really doing professional quilting for clients.  I found that if any quilt shop was teaching a class, and I happened to quilt the class sample for them, then people taking that class tended to want me to also quilt their quilt exactly the same as the class sample.  Well, picture people finishing a quilt top, which might take months and months (often years), and I would be quilting so many other quilts in the meantime that I had no memory of that quilt – what it looked like, or how I quilted it.  There were times that I’d get ten quilts exactly the same and everyone would want them quilted exactly the same.  So I started making notes about every quilt.  That’s a lot of notes when you get into the hundreds (and in my case, over 4100 quilts so far.)


    I make a new note in my word file for each year and label it ‘Quilting Notes 2025′, then start #1, date, client name, name of quilt, and size of quilt.  Then below this first line, I list memorable things about this quilt.  For example if was totally square of if I had to make adjustments.  If the borders are really flared, then I make a note to give the customer the printed tutorial about how to make your quilts square, especially when attaching the borders.  I put the colors of thread I used on this quilt (this is very important if you end up quilting multiple quilts that are using the same fabrics – this saves sooooo much guesswork in the next quilt.)  I’d put what batting I used in the quilt, and if I supplied the batting or if the customer sent their own choice.  And then I list how I quilted it.  For years and years, I only did custom quilting, so every single block was different, so I detailed how I quilted each block.  If I ever did a pantograph design, I listed the design.  Once I started having computerized designs, I would put the name of the design and the size I used.  Then I’d comment to myself if I liked the end result or if I’d change it in some way if I ever quilted this again.  At the end, I put what I charged the customer, and then what date they paid me and how I got paid (check, cash, Venmo, Credit Card, etc.)  It’s all in the details.


    So – here’s my hint.


1.  TAKE PICTURES of EVERY quilt!!!!  Take a good overall and several closeups of different blocks.  Take a picture of the quilt back.  Make a folder in your pictures called MY QUILTS, or Quilts I quilted.  Something like that so you can find the pictures quickly when needed.


2.  Document what you did on every quilt, making a file on your computer or in a simple notebook that you keep by your quilting machine.  This simple step may save you so much time in the future. For example you can document a new design you used and if you should never use it again, of if you’d like it larger so it won’t be so dense next time, or if the design took forever to stitch out, or if you had problems with it.  Or if you used a new thread and loved the way it worked so you can order more, or if you wanted to throw it in the trash.

I hope this helps at least one person for the future!  I would have loved to have someone tell me this when I first started quilting. As I was quilting professionally, the more time I could save in the future meant the more quilts I could quilt and the more money I could make. (or truthfully, the more time it left me for sewing my own things.)

Happy Quilting!
Kathy

Kathy Quilts University is now live!

🎉 Big News from Kathy Quilts University!

We’ve made a huge step forward with Kathy Quilts University (KQU)—and we’re doing it to help you become a more confident and skilled quilter, no matter where you’re starting from.


🧵 Why KQU?

If you’ve ever felt unsure about how to pin a quilt, load your frame properly, or move past meandering designs—you’re in the right place.

Fabric is too expensive and your time is too valuable to end up with puckers or tension issues.

We’re here to show you how to get it right with easy-to-follow videos and real-world guidance.


📚 What You’ll Learn

  • ✅ How to properly pin and load a quilt on any 3-rail frame
  • ✅ Free motion quilting you can actually master
  • ✅ How to troubleshoot tension, thread, and technique
  • ✅ And yes, feathers, swirls, borders, and more!

We’ve organized videos into clear categories inside KQU so you can find what you need fast. All content is free to access for a short time, then most videos will only be available to subscribers.


💡 Why We Use YouTube

We host videos on YouTube so we can keep costs down for you. You might see an ad or two (we don’t earn anything from them), but it saves you from needing another streaming platform. No fluff, no clickbait—just solid quilting training.

By subscribing, you’re supporting this project so we can keep improving video quality and helping quilters like you go beyond basic meandering.

Check out Kathy Quilts University!

Got Questions?

Shoot us a message or leave a comment—Kathy and I are here to help every step of the way.

Edge-to-Edge Quilting Using Pantograph Patterns

When and How to Quilt an Edge-to-Edge Pantograph Pattern

Edge-to-edge (E2E) pantograph quilting is one of the easiest and most effective ways to finish a quilt with a professional look. Whether you’re quilting for yourself or customers, a pantograph design can add beautiful texture without the complexity of custom quilting. Let’s go over when to use a pantograph and how to quilt one successfully.

“Easy” is a matter of experience. When I start quilting a pantograph, my first few rows don’t look as polished as the later ones because, like anything, it takes practice. Kathy, on the other hand, makes it look effortless because she has incredible control over her machine. If you want to skip the long learning curve, automation is the way to go. That’s why we sell QCT6 (QuiltMotion), which is now Kathy’s go-to setup. Since she quilts for customers, she needs efficiency—she loads the quilt, picks the perfect design, stitches down the edges so the hopping foot doesn’t catch, and lets her Q’nique 21X Elite handle the rest. With QCT6 Pro’s Power Panto mode, the entire process is automated! This frees Kathy up to do custom free-motion quilting on her Gammill Classic, allowing her to finish twice as many quilts. When you’re busy, every minute counts!

When to Use a Pantograph Design

A pantograph is a continuous line design that spans the entire quilt, from edge to edge, repeating across the entire surface. Here’s when it’s a great choice:

• Busy Fabric or Scrappy Quilts – A pantograph blends well and adds texture without overpowering the piecing.

• Fast and Efficient Quilting – If you need to finish a quilt quickly, an edge-to-edge design is much faster than custom quilting.

• For Beginners – Learning to quilt a pantograph is a great way to build confidence with your longarm. If you’re a beginner or trying a new design, I highly recommend practicing on a practice quilt first. Muscle memory is key—the more you practice, the smoother and more accurate your quilting will be. Taking the time to warm up will help your finished quilt match the pantograph design much more closely.

• All-Over Texture – When you want an even, consistent quilted look, pantographs provide a great balance.

What You Will Need

1. Rear handles for your long-arm machine – When using a pantograph pattern, it typically rests on the tabletop surface of your quilting frame. To keep it flat and prevent it from rolling up, try placing a sheet of clear vinyl plastic (available at craft stores) over the pattern. If your design has an offset pattern—where every other row shifts—you’ll need to use the registration marks to align each row correctly. Having rear handles on your machine is a game-changer, allowing you to stand at the back of the frame and smoothly guide the laser dot along the design. Rear handles are also handy when loading your quilt, making it easier to stitch down the batting and quilt top to the backing before you start quilting.

2. Laser for following the pantograph pattern (edge to edge design) – A laser guide is a must-have for quilting pantograph patterns. The Q’nique Laser easily plugs into the rear handles of all Q’nique and Block RockiT longarm machines, giving you precise control as you follow the design. It also comes with multiple lenses to adjust the size of the red dot on your pantograph, making it easier to see and trace. Following a pattern can feel tricky at first, which is why practice is so important— the more you use it, the smoother your quilting will become!

3. Pantograph Design – You can find pantograph designs at some quilt shops, but shopping online usually offers more variety. When buying a design, check if a digital version is included. Many quilters who start by following the red laser dot eventually upgrade to QCT6 automation, and having a digital copy means you won’t have to repurchase the same design for your computerized system later. It’s a smart way to future-proof your quilting!


How to Quilt a Pantograph Step-by-Step

1. Choose the Right Pantograph Design

Pick a design that matches the quilt’s style. Simple loops, swirls, and meanders work great for modern and playful quilts, while feathers or florals add elegance to traditional quilts.

2. Set Up Your Quilt on the Frame

Load your quilt backing, batting, and quilt top onto the longarm frame. Make sure it is taut but not overstretched.

3. Align Your Pantograph

Place the pantograph design on the back table of your longarm quilting machine. Use a laser pointer or stylus to follow the design.

4. Start Quilting

Begin at the edge of the quilt and follow the pantograph pattern with smooth, steady movements. Keep an even pace to maintain consistent stitch length.

5. Advance the Quilt

After finishing a row, roll the quilt forward and reposition your machine to continue the next pass of the pantograph. Make sure each row aligns properly to avoid gaps or overlaps.

6. Finish and Trim

Once the entire quilt is quilted, remove it from the frame, trim the edges, and bind it as usual.

Pro Tips for Success

• Practice First – If you’re new to pantographs, practice on scrap fabric before quilting your actual quilt.

• Use the Right Needle and Thread – A strong polyester (long-arm machine quilting thread is our recommendation) or cotton thread works well for pantographs, and a size 18 needle is a good choice for most longarms.

• Keep Your Hand Movements Steady – Smooth, even motion is key to preventing jagged lines or inconsistent stitching.

Pantographs are an excellent way to finish quilts efficiently while creating a beautiful, uniform design. With a little practice, you’ll be quilting stunning edge-to-edge patterns in no time!

Would you like help choosing a pantograph design or learning more about using your longarm? Let’s talk in the comments below!

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Why Free Motion Quilting Is A Good Place To Start

Free Motion Quilting

Free motion quilting can feel overwhelming if you dive in with a brand-new longarm system, load up a king-size quilt, and expect flawless results right away. The truth is, mastering longarm quilting is a journey—it takes practice, patience, and progression. Just like learning to play the piano, quilting on a longarm machine is a step-by-step process, where each skill builds on the next. Take it one stitch at a time, and you’ll get there!

Why Free Motion Quilting Rather Than Following A Pantograph Pattern?

Following an edge-to-edge pantograph pattern is trickier than it looks. Keeping that little laser dot perfectly on the line takes a lot more control and focus than most people expect. The great thing about free motion quilting is that it helps you develop muscle memory much faster than simply following pantographs.

Every quilt has its own personality, and sometimes an overall design just doesn’t do it justice. Free motion or custom quilting gives you the freedom to be creative and let the quilt “speak” to you. Take a pinwheel quilt, for example—pinwheels spin, they have movement! Your quilting should reflect that motion instead of covering it up with a random edge-to-edge pattern that doesn’t fit the design. The right quilting enhances the quilt, bringing it to life rather than overpowering it.

Don’t get me wrong—there are so many incredible edge-to-edge pantograph patterns out there that can truly enhance a quilt when used in the right situations. They can add texture, movement, and a beautiful finish. But having the skills to do both edge-to-edge and free motion quilting gives you the flexibility to choose what best suits each quilt. When you’re proficient in both methods, you can listen to what the quilt needs and create a masterpiece that truly brings it to life.

How To Get Started Free Motion Quilting

The best way to get started with free motion quilting is to load a practice quilt onto your frame and just start quilting! Don’t be afraid to quilt the heck out of it—this is all about building skill and confidence. Avoid using an old bed sheet as backing since it doesn’t give the best quilting experience. Instead, grab some affordable cotton fabric from Walmart and use a quality batting like Hobbs 80/20 Heirloom. It’s not the cheapest option, but it will help you get a feel for how your more expensive quilts will handle when you’re ready for them. A great exercise to begin with is writing in cursive. If you remember practicing lowercase and uppercase letters over and over in school, this will feel familiar. This technique teaches continuous line quilting, where you move smoothly without stopping, cutting your thread, and restarting. Learning to quilt efficiently within a block and then transitioning to the next without unnecessary stops will save time and make your quilting process much more fluid. With practice, you’ll develop the control and muscle memory needed to create beautiful, flowing designs!

Practice Makes Perfect… Well Pretty Close Anyway!

When we first started quilting on a longarm machine we heard over and over, “Just practice, practice, practice!” It is so true. When Kathy first started quilting she told her friends that she would supply the batting if they gave her quilts to practice on. The only stipulation was that they were donation quilts so her friends had to donate them. That way it didn’t matter how horrible Kathy thought they were because they were out of site out of mind and someone had a nice quilt give to them.

Meandering or Stippling Isn’t The Only Game In Town

Too many quilts rely on simple stippling or loose meandering, and while that may have been the go-to technique for old-school quilt teachers in the ‘70s, quilting has evolved so much since then! There are endless possibilities with feathers, fill patterns, and creative designs that can truly enhance the personality of your quilt. These techniques add depth, texture, and artistry, turning an ordinary quilt into something extraordinary. We’re working on some exciting YouTube videos to showcase a variety of fill patterns you can master and incorporate into your quilting. With a little practice, you’ll be able to transform your quilts into stunning, show-worthy pieces—quilting them yourself! Stay tuned and get ready to take your quilting to the next level!

In Conclusion

Don’t over think the whole machine quilting thing! There are far too many people that have invested a lot of money into their longarm quilting system only to be so intimidated by it that they never start. That is why loading a simple practice quilt on it and just scribble. Just do something. After you start to get a feel for how your machine moves around, then start practicing on feathers or other more advance fill designs. You are on the road to creating your own style. Don’t be satisfied with mediocre quilting quality. Remember that there are no natural born professional longarm quilters. Everyone that ever go to where they can do show quilts started just like you by pinning on a quilt and practice, practice, practice!

Let me know what you thought about this post.

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Kathy Barlow owner of Kathy Quilts University

New Machine Quilting How-To Videos on YouTube from Kathy Quilts University

Our latest machine quilting videos are packed with tips, tricks, and step-by-step tutorials designed to make your quilting journey smoother and more enjoyable. Here’s a peek at what’s new:

🌟 Pattern Eclipse with QCT-6 Pro Gold Card Access

This video highlights the powerful Pattern Eclipse feature of the QCT-6 Pro Gold Card Access. This is a really cool feature when you have areas on your quilt that you want to mask off and not have the edge to edge pattern quilt over it. Kathy’s pumpkin quilt shows how she did it.

https://youtu.be/Uh_fhG1l1LY?si=MoWoXcGbMpbcYz52

🧵 Grace Company Precision Leader Cloth Hack

The cloth leaders used to attach a quilt to the quilting frame rails are pretty good, but they can be even better with a few simple adjustments. This video shows you exactly how to prepare your leaders before you install them. Check them out!

https://youtu.be/rK0H15QOtbk

✨ Essential QCT6 Safe Zone Tips Everyone Needs to Know

Check out the video!

Why Subscribe to Kathy Quilts University?

We’re constantly adding new videos to help you improve your skills and make the most of your quilting machine. We will be doing more videos on free motion quilting and how to develop you muscle memory so you can quilt like Kathy!

Here are some of the subjects we plan on covering.

• Product walkthroughs

• Maintenance tips

• Tutorials for both beginner and advanced quilters

• Inspiration for your next project


Huge Black Friday Sale Now Live!

This is the biggest sale of the year at KathyQuilts.com! Check out the sale


Join the Conversation!

We love hearing from our community! If you have a question or want to see a specific topic covered, leave a comment on one of our videos.

Ready to learn something new? Head over to the Kathy Quilts University YouTube channel, hit subscribe, and start exploring our latest tutorials today!

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Happy quilting,

The Kathy Quilts Team

How QCT 6 Pro Has Changed My Quilting Business

Kathy by her Q'nique 21 Pro and Continuum Quilting Frame

For several years, I’d wander through quilt shows, strolling through vendor booths—it’s my favorite pastime! I’d see these stunning quilts quilted simply with all-over patterns. Now, I’m mostly a ‘custom’ quilter, changing thread colors, switching up designs for each block and border. But those all-over designs were so beautiful that they really made the whole quilt shine. I wanted to create that look on my own quilts, but I didn’t have a computerized system on my home setup.

When COVID hit, with all that extra time at home, I thought, ‘Now’s my chance!’ I dove into quilting with the QCT QuiltMotion system. I’d previously used pantographs from the back of my quilter, following patterns by hand, but WOW! The precision using Quilt Motion was next-level. Each quilt became more fun, and my skills improved. Plus, with free designs I found online, I could add even more variety.

And don’t get me wrong, I’m still right there as the machine quilts, but now I can do designs I never thought possible! Quilting for clients has sped up, and my work feels elevated. So, if you’re thinking about a computerized system—if not now, when? There’s never been a better time, and learning it now puts you way ahead for next year. Imagine quilting simple all-over designs or making each block unique with more precision. I only wish I’d started years ago!

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Pinning a Quilt on a Grace Two Rail Frame

Here’s how to pin a quilt on a Grace Company 2-rail frame:

1. Prepare Your Quilt Layers: Lay out your backing, batting, and quilt top. Make sure your backing fabric is a few inches larger than the quilt top on all sides.

2. Attach the Backing Fabric: With the wrong side of the backing fabric facing up, pin one edge of the backing to the take-up rail using the cloth leaders. Smooth the fabric, then pin the opposite edge to the front rail, keeping it taut but not stretched.

3. Roll the Backing: Roll the backing fabric onto the front rail, keeping it smooth and wrinkle-free.

4. Attach the Quilt Top: Pin the top edge of the quilt top (right side up) to the front rail’s leader cloth. Smooth the top and pin the opposite edge to the take-up rail.

5. Pin the Batting: Place your batting between the backing and quilt top. Let the batting rest flat without pinning it, making sure it’s centered.

6. Smooth and Adjust: Roll the quilt top and backing as needed, keeping everything smooth and tension even across the frame.

You can also watch a video on YouTube where Kathy Barlow shows you how to install the Cloth Leaders and other video of how to pin your quilt on the frame:

Link for how to install cloth leaders on your Grace Frame:

https://youtu.be/kWDolmYUMOs

Link for how to pin a quilt on your two rail Grace Frame:

https://youtu.be/3bRsq3xa-h4

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