Machine Quilting Frames and Hoop Frames

Longarm machine frames have been around for many years. They tend to be pricey and take up a lot of space. Typically, folks who own longarm frames quilt professionally or have more disposable income than most of us. But recently, the “Home Machine Quilting” market has taken off, with many major frame manufacturers now making frames for home sewing machines.

If you’ve got a domestic machine and are thinking about adding a frame, this info is for you. We’re focusing on shortarm machine frame quilting since there are plenty of other resources out there for traditional longarm quilting.

Most home sewing machines are considered “Short-arm Machines.” The space to the right of the needle, known as the harp, needs to be at least six inches for you to quilt effectively on a frame. Many shortarm frames are paired with machines that have a nine-inch throat. You can use your own machine in most cases, but those with at least a nine-inch throat provide distinct advantages over standard machines when quilting. If you want to dive into shortarm machine quilting, this is the way to go!

These nine-inch throat machines are real workhorses that can run at 1500 or even 1600 stitches per minute. That might sound fast, but once you’ve been quilting for a while, it doesn’t feel that way. Machines like the Juki 2010Q, Brother 1500, Janome 1600, Viking Mega Quilter, and Pfaff Grand Quilter are some of the most popular for quilting on shortarm frames. They work with speed controls and stitch regulators, making them super versatile.

Some machine frames let you place the foot pedal directly on the carriage, but others will need a speed control or stitch regulator, which takes the place of the foot pedal altogether. If you go this route, it does limit your machine options, but these straight stitch-only machines are perfect for quilting—it’s all you need! They’re also great for piecing quilts or regular sewing projects, just without any fancy stitches.

At KathyQuilts.com, we sell the Little Rebel. It has a big enough throat to handle pretty much any quilt you’d do on a quilting frame or hoop. It’s fast, the stitch quality is top-notch, and it runs so smoothly that it cuts down on vibration. Less vibration means less hand fatigue, so you can quilt longer without needing a break. The Little Rebel is perfect for people who are serious about quilting, but don’t want to break the bank! We’ve sold thousands of quilting frames over the years, and we’re here to support our customers for as long as they need help. With the right training and equipment, the possibilities are endless!

Short-arm, Long-arm, and Hoop Quilting Frames

The main difference between short-arm, long-arm, and hoop quilting frames is pretty simple—the throat space on the machine and the size of the machine’s footprint. Short-arm frames were designed for folks who got tired of rolling their quilt and cramming it under the arm of their domestic machine. They’re a huge upgrade from the old “throw it over your shoulder” style of quilting. With a short-arm frame, you’re moving the machine around the quilt instead of wrestling with it under a stationary needle.

The Q-Zone Queen frame is a solid budget-friendly option, setting up at 8 feet long and adjustable between 34.5” and 42.5” front to back, depending on the machine you’re using. It works with domestic machines (anywhere from 6 inches to 19 inches of throat space), and it’s also compatible with Q’nique 16X, Block RockiT 15R, or Q’nique 19X Elite machines, making it a super versatile machine frame.

With a short-arm frame, just be mindful of your quilt size and motifs. Rolling the quilt every couple of minutes can get old quick, so it’s key to maximize your machine’s capacity. Kathy’s tip is to start at one end and quilt as much as possible as you work your way across. Don’t get hung up on what the frame can’t do. You might need to change thread colors often, but knock out the borders and main sections while you’re in that zone.

One great time-saving trick is to load your quilt sideways if you’ve got only 6-8 inches of throat space. If your quilt is longer than it is wide, throw that long edge on the rail (if it fits). That way, you’ll have longer rows to quilt and less rolling. A 10 or 12-foot frame, like the Q-Zone Queen with a 2-foot extension or the Quilter’s Evolution Elite, really steps things up here.

For queen-size quilts, a 10-foot frame is best. If you’re thinking of tackling king-size quilts, go for a 12-foot frame. An 8-foot frame limits you to quilts that are 84 inches or smaller. When your machine is on the frame, remember that the carriage hits the side of the frame, and the needle is usually 7-8 inches in from the edge, which shrinks your quilting zone more than you might think. Hoop frames, like the Cutie Breeze or Q-Zone hoop frame, have the same issue—the machine won’t reach all the way to the edges. You’ll need cloth leaders to start your quilt about 8-9 inches in from the end.

Hoop frames are a great option when you need a small footprint but still want to quilt like you’re using a rolling rail frame. The quilt drapes over the sides of the frame instead of being pinned directly to the rail, so you quilt in zones. After quilting one zone, you slide the quilt over to the next until you’ve worked your way across to the opposite side. Kathy always recommends starting on the left side and working your way over to the right. This is where having cloth leaders that pin across the top of the quilt really comes in handy. With a hoop frame, you can quilt almost any size project since the quilt hangs off the sides.

The downside to hoop frames is that you usually need to baste all three layers—your quilt top, batting, and backing—together before loading it onto the frame. That’s an extra step you don’t have to deal with on a rolling rail frame. But if you don’t have space for an 8, 10, or 12-foot frame, a hoop frame is the next best thing.

Cloth Leaders

Just like those old cassette tapes that had that clear section you couldn’t record on, which hooked the brown tape to the spindle, you need something to attach your quilt to the frame or hoop when quilting. Those strips of fabric are called leaders, and they’re what you pin your quilt to—attached to the frame itself. The Grace Company Evolution Hoop frame and the Evolution Elite (rolling rail) frames are the only Grace frames that come with cloth leaders included.

You can make your own leaders, but you’ve got to be sure you’re using the right fabric so they’re not too stretchy. It’s something worth discussing when you buy your frame, or if you’re picking up a used frame, make sure the cloth leaders are included.

Breaking Down the Frame for Storage

Currently, the only frames you can truly store away are the Cutie and Cutie Breeze frames. In the past, some quilters tried disassembling their larger frames, but that never really worked well. If you need a quilting system that can be put away when not in use, the Cutie Frame (which is now discontinued) or the Cutie Breeze Frame with its upgraded upper carriage system are your best bets.

There are other quilting systems out there, but they don’t work as smoothly as the Cutie Frame. You might be able to find a used Cutie Frame somewhere, or you can go with the Cutie Breeze for the best storage-friendly option.